When I lived in Jerusalem in 2009 I would often walk past restaurants and shops with armed guards posted at the doors. In fact, almost every restaurant I ate in had a guard at the door, which served not only to reassure customers that the proprietor took security seriously, but as a very real mechanism of last resort in the event that a suicide bomber tried to force their way inside.
When I was in Jerusalem this past November I was particularly struck by the general absence of armed guards at the entrances to restaurants and cafés in the city. While in 2009 the vast majority of restaurants in the city had gaurds posted outside, in 2013 the opposite now seemed to be true. When I remarked to friends who live in Jerusalem that this seemed like a significant reversal, they all cited the presence of the security fence and the attendant decrease in attempted bombings, as the reason for this change. I have to admit that although I know they were right, and the number of bombings has been vastly reduced, that it still felt a little strange to sit in a cafe on Emrk Refaim, one of the busiest streets in Jerusalem, with no gaurds sitting out front.
By and large Israel is a very safe country with top notch police and security forces that do a remarkably good job protecting citizens and visitors alike. The fact that restaurant owners in town no longer feel a need to post a guard outside of every establishment is certainly a testament to the dedication and diligence of these professionals. That being said, there were several reminders in the past two weeks that there are those who have nothing in their hearts but contempt for the only democracy in the Middle East, and think nothing of murdering innocent civilians to express the hatred. Since the middle of December we have seen an Israeli civilian working near Gaza killed by a terrorist sniper, an officer with the border police stabbed, some quick thinking by passengers and a driver who narrowly averted disaster when they discovered a bomb left on a passenger bus and most recently rocket striking both northern and central Israel.
Israel is still an incredibly safe country, one of the few places where I never hesitate to walk somewhere late at night, or to travel by myself. As I read the news about this latest violence, though, I couldn't help but think about the need for the Jewish community to remain aware of the existential danger posed to Israel by its enemies. Israel is not, and never should be, defined solely by the conflict with the Palestinians (or any other group), but until peace is achieved (and I fervently believe such a day cannot come soon enough) we cannot ignore the reality that in the last week alone, terrorists managed to shoot one Israeli, stab another, very nearly blow up a bus filled with passengers and terrorize innocent men, women and children with rockets.
Here in New Hampshire we have many people from across the political spectrum who care about Israel and the conversation can become heated, even when people of goodwill disagree. I would suggest that during this period when we have had such terrible reminders of the threats still facing Israel, that regardless of where we might stand politically, that a real and lasting peace is in everyone's best interest. In the meantime perhaps all we can do is hope and pray that Israel's enemies will realize that such attacks will never gain them what they hope to achieve, and that the rockets, bullets and bombs will stop.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
Monday, December 30, 2013
Sunday, December 22, 2013
Making the Israel Connection
One of the roles that Jewish Federations and Jewish Community Relations Councils play across the country is to provide a point of connection between elected officials at all levels, and the Jewish community. These are relationships which are important when it comes to making sure that the voice of the Jewish community is heard on a range of topics, including Israel advocacy and matters of social justice. In New Hampshire we are lucky to have many elected officials who are aware of the social justice concerns of our community as well as the level of commitment and interest when it comes to Israel. For these reasons we were delighted to host Congresswoman Ann McClane Kuster (D) at the Jewish Federation of New Hampshire building in Manchester at the end of November.
During her talk Congresswoman Kuster discussed her visit to Israel this past summer and some of the insights she gained during meetings and conversations with government officials, community leaders and average Israelis on the street. There are many organizations that provide opportunities for elected officials to visit Israel and learn about Israeli society at all levels - personally I think these programs are important not only because they help bolster connections between the US and Israel (the only democracy in the Middle East and a close US ally) but because they offer our leaders a chance to become immersed in Jewish culture and history, something which can only foster greater understanding. It is commendable that Congresswoman Kuster took the time to go to Israel to see firsthand some of the realities, challenges and triumphs that are part of daily life there, and equally as laudable, I would argue, that she took time upon her return to reach out to the Jewish community and share some of her insights.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
During her talk Congresswoman Kuster discussed her visit to Israel this past summer and some of the insights she gained during meetings and conversations with government officials, community leaders and average Israelis on the street. There are many organizations that provide opportunities for elected officials to visit Israel and learn about Israeli society at all levels - personally I think these programs are important not only because they help bolster connections between the US and Israel (the only democracy in the Middle East and a close US ally) but because they offer our leaders a chance to become immersed in Jewish culture and history, something which can only foster greater understanding. It is commendable that Congresswoman Kuster took the time to go to Israel to see firsthand some of the realities, challenges and triumphs that are part of daily life there, and equally as laudable, I would argue, that she took time upon her return to reach out to the Jewish community and share some of her insights.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
Sunday, December 15, 2013
Reflecting on the value of Hillel, post Pew
While the results of the Pew survey have been dismaying to those of us who care about the future of Jewish life in America, I firmly believe that all is not lost and that there are certainly things we can do to address the challenges highlighted in the report. In order to do this we need to bolster foundational programs and institutions to help ensure that future generations will feel connected to Judaism. One area where I firmly believe that our support and attention is likely to pay significant dividends is on college campuses in the state.
Here in New Hampshire there are many Jewish students attending schools from UNH and Southern New Hampshire University in the east to Dartmouth College in the west. There are also places where people are working to create Jewish community, such as at Keene State College, where I had the pleasure of meeting with two students who are doing just this: building a Jewish community designed to not only meet the needs and interests of current students, but to create something that will be there to welcome future Jewish students as well.
With some financial and faculty support from the college these students have begun to establish a presence on campus and have already held several events, including a sushi Shabbat dinner and a Hanukkah party. When we spoke I told them that I would share the news of what they are doing with others in the NH Jewish Community and also think about ways that the Federation might be able to offer support and guidance. I think the administration of Keene State should also be applauded for their support of this student initiative, since having visible, vibrant Jewish life on campus benefits not only Jewish students, but all students, providing an opportunity for everyone in the college community to learn about Jewish life, culture and traditions.
Of course when it comes to Hillel I'm not really objective, since when I was a graduate student Harvard Hillel played a vital role in my life, both personally and professionally, providing resources and opportunities to connect with Judaism in new and creative ways, to learn firsthand about Israel and offering countless lessons in leadership and community building. During my time on the graduate student steering committee at Hillel we had many successes (and some failures) as we worked with the different minyanim, Hillel staff and undergraduates to create programs that we thought would improve Jewish life on campus.
This was one of the places where I learned about the challenges (and the wonderful rewards) to be found in working within a pluralistic Jewish environment, something which certainly has resonance for me today as I visit different Jewish communities across New Hampshire. Although I would say I grew up with exposure to different ways of being Jewish, it was at Harvard Hillel that I learned to work across denominational lines, working with other Jewish young adults from across the country who found their own connections to Judaism in diverse and myriad ways. The lessons I learned through my involvement with Hillel have proven invaluable, so the prospect of being able to help college students in New Hampshire enjoy some of the same benefits I got from Hillel is particulary exciting for me, and I am very much looking forward to continuing the dialogue with them.
I would be remiss if I did not mention the towering figure whose name adorns countless Jewish student centers across the US: Hillel himself. His dictum that we must not only act for ourselves, nor must we delay action, has been a guiding principle in my own life and one that the Jewish people have held dear for centuries. Perhaps as we think about the sobering results of the Pew survey we would do well to think about Hillel, both his call to action, and the modern institution which bears his name. Both represent, each in their own way, important tools we have for ensuring Jewish continuity in New Hampshire and throughout North America.
Here in New Hampshire there are many Jewish students attending schools from UNH and Southern New Hampshire University in the east to Dartmouth College in the west. There are also places where people are working to create Jewish community, such as at Keene State College, where I had the pleasure of meeting with two students who are doing just this: building a Jewish community designed to not only meet the needs and interests of current students, but to create something that will be there to welcome future Jewish students as well.
With some financial and faculty support from the college these students have begun to establish a presence on campus and have already held several events, including a sushi Shabbat dinner and a Hanukkah party. When we spoke I told them that I would share the news of what they are doing with others in the NH Jewish Community and also think about ways that the Federation might be able to offer support and guidance. I think the administration of Keene State should also be applauded for their support of this student initiative, since having visible, vibrant Jewish life on campus benefits not only Jewish students, but all students, providing an opportunity for everyone in the college community to learn about Jewish life, culture and traditions.
Of course when it comes to Hillel I'm not really objective, since when I was a graduate student Harvard Hillel played a vital role in my life, both personally and professionally, providing resources and opportunities to connect with Judaism in new and creative ways, to learn firsthand about Israel and offering countless lessons in leadership and community building. During my time on the graduate student steering committee at Hillel we had many successes (and some failures) as we worked with the different minyanim, Hillel staff and undergraduates to create programs that we thought would improve Jewish life on campus.
This was one of the places where I learned about the challenges (and the wonderful rewards) to be found in working within a pluralistic Jewish environment, something which certainly has resonance for me today as I visit different Jewish communities across New Hampshire. Although I would say I grew up with exposure to different ways of being Jewish, it was at Harvard Hillel that I learned to work across denominational lines, working with other Jewish young adults from across the country who found their own connections to Judaism in diverse and myriad ways. The lessons I learned through my involvement with Hillel have proven invaluable, so the prospect of being able to help college students in New Hampshire enjoy some of the same benefits I got from Hillel is particulary exciting for me, and I am very much looking forward to continuing the dialogue with them.
I would be remiss if I did not mention the towering figure whose name adorns countless Jewish student centers across the US: Hillel himself. His dictum that we must not only act for ourselves, nor must we delay action, has been a guiding principle in my own life and one that the Jewish people have held dear for centuries. Perhaps as we think about the sobering results of the Pew survey we would do well to think about Hillel, both his call to action, and the modern institution which bears his name. Both represent, each in their own way, important tools we have for ensuring Jewish continuity in New Hampshire and throughout North America.
Thursday, November 21, 2013
Building a bridge to the future
Last night I had the pleasure of attending the Shapiro Family Lecture Series at Temple Beth Jacob in Concord, where the featured speaker was Rabbi David S. Wolfman, a consultant, long-time Reform rabbi and avid observer of Jewish life in America today. During his talk Rabbi Wolfman offered observations and insights into the ways in which Judaism has changed over the millennia, highlighting key shifts in modes in Jewish thought, worship and identity from the time of Moses to the present day.
The central theme of his presentation seemed to be that Judaism has gone through a number of evolutions and iterations, and he outlined these changes by taking the audience on a journey through time and space, labeling the period of Moses as "Judaism 1.0" and laying out a timeline that includes the present, which he called "Judaism 4.0." The conversation about "Judaism 4.0" took us, naturally, to a discussion of what "Judaism 5.0", the next stage of Jewish life, might look like. On this last point Rabbi Wolfman emphasized the notion that just as the grandparents or great-grandparents of those in the audience might have found it impossible to envision Jewish life in 2013, that it is likely that current older generations of Jews may find future modes of Jewish expression equally opaque and inscrutable.
Over the course of the evening there were many things he said that rang true for me, others with which l disagreed and many questions which arose throughout it all. For example, Rabbi Wolfman suggested that however Jews in their 20's and 30's choose to express Jewish identity, that older generations will need to take a completely hands-off approach, allowing Jewish young adults to essentially create their own version of being Jewish. Speaking only for myself, but as someone who is part of this generation of Jewish young adults, I have to say that I think this is terrible idea and one which is not only unlikely to bolster Jewish continuity, but rather accelerate an already troubling trend of cultural atomization, which I believe is fueled in part by an intensely post-modern approach to identity.
A few years ago I wrote a piece for the website e-Jewishphilanthropy.com about a similar way of thinking about the next generation of Jewish donors and lay leaders, arguing essentially that to look at the next generation as divorced from previous and current leaders, creates a gap - a yawning chasm where there should be a bridge. The whole story of the Jewish people, I would argue, is one of continuity, of transmitting ideas and values from one generation to the next. Yes, each generation can and does make its own determinations when if comes to what their communities look like in for. And practice, but to suggest that there should be a break between generations, as opposed to a bridge, feels like capitulation to me. Instead, I would argue that every generation needs to work hand-in-hand to assure the continuation of the Jewish community, so that no one is left out of the process. Of course this is much more easily said than done, but I believe this is one of, if not the most, important challenges facing American Jewry today.
As I said, this is just one example of an idea that came up during the evening, and I really enjoyed listening to both Rabbi Wolfman and Rabbi Nafshi, as well as members of the audience, during a spirited and important conversation about the past, present and future of Jewish life. We need more of these conversations in the New Hampshire Jewish community, to provide opportunities for people to come together in community and have honest discussions. These events are vital because they give everyone a chance to talk about what being Jewish means to them, on both an individual and communal level. In my mind such discussions are absolutely vital and we will only succeed in strengthening Jewish life in the state if we can continue to talk about the common challenges (and joys) that we all share together.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
The central theme of his presentation seemed to be that Judaism has gone through a number of evolutions and iterations, and he outlined these changes by taking the audience on a journey through time and space, labeling the period of Moses as "Judaism 1.0" and laying out a timeline that includes the present, which he called "Judaism 4.0." The conversation about "Judaism 4.0" took us, naturally, to a discussion of what "Judaism 5.0", the next stage of Jewish life, might look like. On this last point Rabbi Wolfman emphasized the notion that just as the grandparents or great-grandparents of those in the audience might have found it impossible to envision Jewish life in 2013, that it is likely that current older generations of Jews may find future modes of Jewish expression equally opaque and inscrutable.
Over the course of the evening there were many things he said that rang true for me, others with which l disagreed and many questions which arose throughout it all. For example, Rabbi Wolfman suggested that however Jews in their 20's and 30's choose to express Jewish identity, that older generations will need to take a completely hands-off approach, allowing Jewish young adults to essentially create their own version of being Jewish. Speaking only for myself, but as someone who is part of this generation of Jewish young adults, I have to say that I think this is terrible idea and one which is not only unlikely to bolster Jewish continuity, but rather accelerate an already troubling trend of cultural atomization, which I believe is fueled in part by an intensely post-modern approach to identity.
A few years ago I wrote a piece for the website e-Jewishphilanthropy.com about a similar way of thinking about the next generation of Jewish donors and lay leaders, arguing essentially that to look at the next generation as divorced from previous and current leaders, creates a gap - a yawning chasm where there should be a bridge. The whole story of the Jewish people, I would argue, is one of continuity, of transmitting ideas and values from one generation to the next. Yes, each generation can and does make its own determinations when if comes to what their communities look like in for. And practice, but to suggest that there should be a break between generations, as opposed to a bridge, feels like capitulation to me. Instead, I would argue that every generation needs to work hand-in-hand to assure the continuation of the Jewish community, so that no one is left out of the process. Of course this is much more easily said than done, but I believe this is one of, if not the most, important challenges facing American Jewry today.
As I said, this is just one example of an idea that came up during the evening, and I really enjoyed listening to both Rabbi Wolfman and Rabbi Nafshi, as well as members of the audience, during a spirited and important conversation about the past, present and future of Jewish life. We need more of these conversations in the New Hampshire Jewish community, to provide opportunities for people to come together in community and have honest discussions. These events are vital because they give everyone a chance to talk about what being Jewish means to them, on both an individual and communal level. In my mind such discussions are absolutely vital and we will only succeed in strengthening Jewish life in the state if we can continue to talk about the common challenges (and joys) that we all share together.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
Tuesday, November 12, 2013
In the middle of it all
As I write this I am sitting at a small table in the center of one of the halls set up during the Jewish Federation General Assembly to showcase a dizzying variety of programs, initiatives and organizations from across Israel and around the Jewish world. All around me are Jews from the US, Canada, Great Britain, Australia, France, Israel, Ethiopia (and probably more places) who have come to this crowded bazaar of Jewish life to learn about the important work being done to strengthen not only world Jewry, but to make the larger world a better place as well.
One such organization I came across this week is the American Friends of Kishorit, an organization dedicated to supporting the amazing work being done at this kibbutz located in the Western Galilee where adults with developmental disabilities and mental health issues live, work and socialize. One resident of the Kibbutz whom I met at the GA told me about the toy shop, dairy and organic vegetable garden they have there. I thought this sounded like a really innovative approach to inclusion and a great example of how a key element of Israeli culture -life on a kibbutz- has been made available to all Israelis.
Another very interesting project I learned about is an initiative called Takdim, a project started by local governments in Israel, in collaboration with several Jewish Federations in North America to help develop a culture of local giving and allocation within Israel. This seems like a great way for Federations in the US to lend a hand to Israel through the sharing of best practices and knowledge gained over decades of helping to build and sustain Jewish life in America. I suspect we will hear more about Takdim in the coming years.
GA attendees also had the opportunity to visit local institutions of learning in the city, followed by field visits to programs that American Jews are participating in around Jerusalem. I chose to visit the Shalom Hartman Institute first, an important think tank and education center non around the world. One of the speakers this morning was Dr. Tal Becker, a research fellow at the institute and a long-time Israeli diplomat, who offered an overview of some of the contemporary challenges facing Israel, when it comes to tensions between the ultra-orthodox and the rest of Israeli society. Our next stop was the Bezalel Arts academy on Mt. Scopus, an art school with a world-class reputation, where we met several American Jews studying at the school, in part with a Jewish Agency funded MASA scholarship, who shared their art with us and told us how how coming to Israel had made a difference in their lives.
Over the course of the last few days I've also had countless conversations with people who are thinking very seriously about the present and future of the Jewish people. I look forward to sharing some of these ideas here in this blog in the weeks ahead.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
One such organization I came across this week is the American Friends of Kishorit, an organization dedicated to supporting the amazing work being done at this kibbutz located in the Western Galilee where adults with developmental disabilities and mental health issues live, work and socialize. One resident of the Kibbutz whom I met at the GA told me about the toy shop, dairy and organic vegetable garden they have there. I thought this sounded like a really innovative approach to inclusion and a great example of how a key element of Israeli culture -life on a kibbutz- has been made available to all Israelis.
Another very interesting project I learned about is an initiative called Takdim, a project started by local governments in Israel, in collaboration with several Jewish Federations in North America to help develop a culture of local giving and allocation within Israel. This seems like a great way for Federations in the US to lend a hand to Israel through the sharing of best practices and knowledge gained over decades of helping to build and sustain Jewish life in America. I suspect we will hear more about Takdim in the coming years.
GA attendees also had the opportunity to visit local institutions of learning in the city, followed by field visits to programs that American Jews are participating in around Jerusalem. I chose to visit the Shalom Hartman Institute first, an important think tank and education center non around the world. One of the speakers this morning was Dr. Tal Becker, a research fellow at the institute and a long-time Israeli diplomat, who offered an overview of some of the contemporary challenges facing Israel, when it comes to tensions between the ultra-orthodox and the rest of Israeli society. Our next stop was the Bezalel Arts academy on Mt. Scopus, an art school with a world-class reputation, where we met several American Jews studying at the school, in part with a Jewish Agency funded MASA scholarship, who shared their art with us and told us how how coming to Israel had made a difference in their lives.
Over the course of the last few days I've also had countless conversations with people who are thinking very seriously about the present and future of the Jewish people. I look forward to sharing some of these ideas here in this blog in the weeks ahead.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
Saturday, November 9, 2013
A conversation between people and across time in Jerusalem
This weekend I was reminded that Jerusalem is a city of marvelous paradoxes, at once ancient and modern, secular and religious, quiet and loud. The streets of the city on Shabbat offer a perfect snapshot of the ways in which the old and the new blend together: while some Jerusalamites walk to synagogue with their Tallit draped over their shoulders others fill the few cafes and restaurants open on Shabbat and others still fill the parks and playgrounds along with their children. And of course there others out and about as well, Arab families going for walks, tourists visiting the old city alongside Israelis from other parts of the country who have simply come to see and experience this place.
Earlier in the day I visited a spot where the old and new have been joined together in an exciting and progressive way, in a recently renovated area around the old Jerusalem train station, a bustling center of activity in the early to mid-twentieth century which by the beginning of the 21st had been abandoned. Now the city has revamped the area entirely, adding a playground, restaurants , shops and space for events, all with a bike path running along the outer edge. Visitors can also learn about the history of the place through photographs and informational signs (in both Hebrew and English) which chronicle the role that the British governmment played in expanding and improving rail service in the country during the Mandatory period. With this strategy the desgners of this new space have managed to weave together a narrative that combines seemingly dsparate parts of the history of a Jerusalem in a seemless way.
The idea of Jerusalem as a unifying place for Jews is one I think I have mentioned here before - it may seem a little paradoxical, given how much the media reports on strife within the Jewish world centered around things like acccess to the Kotel plaza and other points of friction between the Ultra-Orthodox and other Jews, but in fact it can also serve to unify people, because regardless of denominational differences, Jerusalem holds a deeply-rooted place in the history of the entire Jewish people. I was reminded of this again at the Jewish Agency Assembly Shabbat dinner last night, where I had the pleasure of sitting with a pretty diverse group of people, including lay leaders from the Orthodox community, an American studying in Israel for the year and an Irish Jew who had made alyah and served as a lone soldier. Despite our differences in background, we were able to have a wonderful conversation about the role of the Orthodox Rabbinate in Israel when it comes to marriage, the beuaty and spirituality of the melodies given to the world by the late Shlomo Carlebach and the role that art can play in Jewish education. Throughout the evening ee shared pieces of our own stories with one another, noting the places where our experiences had overlapped or diverged in the Jewish world and discovering we had more in common than one might think, and while I suppose it's possible for such a conversation to happen in other places, to me there was something special abouut having it in Israel, in the capital of the Jewish State.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
Friday, November 8, 2013
Friday in Jerusalem
On Friday afternoons in Jerusalem the entire city buzzes with activity as residents and visitors alike hurry to do last minute shopping and prepare for Shabbat. This Friday I found myself in the amazingly diverse and vibrant Jerusalem neighborhood of Nachlaot, along with other attendees of the Jewish Agency for Israel Annual Assembly. In a fun departure from the traditonal mode of many big conferences which often keep attendees cooped up all day and night in windowless hotel ballrooms, the organizers of this year's Annual Assembly presented us with several choices for Friday morning activities in and around Jerusalem.
I chose to join the group going on a two-hour scaveger hunt throughout Nachlaot and the nearby open-air market, Machaneh Yehuda. Each group of 4 or 5 participants was paired up with a young adult currently spending a year in Israel on a MASA (Jewish Agency-affiliated) program who used a smart phone to read QR ccodes posted around different points in the area. Using these codes as signposts, along with laminated maps provided by the organizers, we had a great time learning about the history of this neighborhood which is home to Jews of practically every denomination and every corner of the globe, from Syria to Poland to the United States. In these winding alleys and narrow roads we stopped to learnabout synagogue built by Jews from Allepo, the generosity of Sir Moses Montefiore who funded much of the early settlement of Jews in the immediate vicinity outside the walls of Jerusalem's Old City, and much more. We also explored the shuk (marketplace) of Machaneh Yehuda, a winding labyrinth of vendors where visitors can buy everything from hard candy and hallavah to fresh-ground spices and cow feet.
After the scavenger hunt was over all of the teams met up at a the Nachlaot community center, where we had a chance to meet some local entrepreneurs who had been given loans by the Jewish Agency to start small businesses. The enterprises included a micro-brewery, as well as a jeweler whose family had once provided their services to the royal family of Yemen many generations ago, and a catering company. It was clear from these presentations that the Jewish Agency assistance had mad a big difference not only in the lives of the individual business owners, but in helping to bolster the base of the local economy.
As we headed back on the busses I thought about the diversity of Jewish life and expression in the city, something very much on display in Nachlaot. It is interesting that for all the points of conflict in the city (and really, in the country) between different groups of Jews, that there are places of remarkable unity that are defined much more by the ways in which people come together than he ways in which they try to pull away from one another. This was also a theme of the opening session of the assembly, which was held Thursday night at the Mamilla Hotel, where President Shimon Peres spoke about the diversity of the Jewish community within Israel, and was followed by two very moving speakers who recounted their own involvement with efforts to rescue Jews from Ethiopia, an effort that represents a remarkable chapter in Jewish history.
It can be tempting to see Jerusalem only as a place of conflict, where tensions simmer and threaten to boil over on a daily basis, but I think the Jewish Agency has done a pretty good job so far in showing us the other side of things and emphasizing the role that Israel can play in uniting world Jewry. It's a valuable lesson and one I look forward to bringing back and thinking about further in New Hampshire in the months ahead.
Shabbat Shalom.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
I chose to join the group going on a two-hour scaveger hunt throughout Nachlaot and the nearby open-air market, Machaneh Yehuda. Each group of 4 or 5 participants was paired up with a young adult currently spending a year in Israel on a MASA (Jewish Agency-affiliated) program who used a smart phone to read QR ccodes posted around different points in the area. Using these codes as signposts, along with laminated maps provided by the organizers, we had a great time learning about the history of this neighborhood which is home to Jews of practically every denomination and every corner of the globe, from Syria to Poland to the United States. In these winding alleys and narrow roads we stopped to learnabout synagogue built by Jews from Allepo, the generosity of Sir Moses Montefiore who funded much of the early settlement of Jews in the immediate vicinity outside the walls of Jerusalem's Old City, and much more. We also explored the shuk (marketplace) of Machaneh Yehuda, a winding labyrinth of vendors where visitors can buy everything from hard candy and hallavah to fresh-ground spices and cow feet.
After the scavenger hunt was over all of the teams met up at a the Nachlaot community center, where we had a chance to meet some local entrepreneurs who had been given loans by the Jewish Agency to start small businesses. The enterprises included a micro-brewery, as well as a jeweler whose family had once provided their services to the royal family of Yemen many generations ago, and a catering company. It was clear from these presentations that the Jewish Agency assistance had mad a big difference not only in the lives of the individual business owners, but in helping to bolster the base of the local economy.
As we headed back on the busses I thought about the diversity of Jewish life and expression in the city, something very much on display in Nachlaot. It is interesting that for all the points of conflict in the city (and really, in the country) between different groups of Jews, that there are places of remarkable unity that are defined much more by the ways in which people come together than he ways in which they try to pull away from one another. This was also a theme of the opening session of the assembly, which was held Thursday night at the Mamilla Hotel, where President Shimon Peres spoke about the diversity of the Jewish community within Israel, and was followed by two very moving speakers who recounted their own involvement with efforts to rescue Jews from Ethiopia, an effort that represents a remarkable chapter in Jewish history.
It can be tempting to see Jerusalem only as a place of conflict, where tensions simmer and threaten to boil over on a daily basis, but I think the Jewish Agency has done a pretty good job so far in showing us the other side of things and emphasizing the role that Israel can play in uniting world Jewry. It's a valuable lesson and one I look forward to bringing back and thinking about further in New Hampshire in the months ahead.
Shabbat Shalom.
Copyright Daniel E. Levenson 2013.
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